Semana Santa--WTF??

The long awaited week has arrived. Semana Santa. Or Holy Week. The Sunday before the festivities started, people either told me how beautiful the next seven days would be OR how scary and overwhelming they would be.

My first glimpse of the parade was an accident. I was biking back from the beach with Mila when I smelled something oh so particular. Something very sweet and very musty but nothing I have ever smelled before. I asked what that sent was and Mila replied "Semana Santa" Suddenly, after a problem free bike-ride, we reached the center of town and a police stopped us to say that the streets are closed off. We hit up another street, and WHAT? hundreds of people just standing there eating sunflower seeds. Forced to get off our bikes, I almost slip with the first step. "Mila!!" I called out in panic "The ground is slippery." or "¿Mila, que ha pasado con el suleo?". "Its from the wax" is all she said. We make it to a road without people and overlooking the town. Suddenly, I see it. A large velvet float covered in candles and a HUGE statue of Jesus and Mary, both weeping. Behind the float is a 20 piece orchestra and in front of the orchestra and the float are millions of hooded figures, dressed exactly like the Klu Klux Klan. This first impression was very intense. I just didn´t expect it to be so strong and in my face.

I went out the next night, at 1:00 am (when the second parade started) and was more prepared. I didn´t have my camera, but just watched in awe. It really was something beautiful but also so strange. I felt like I was in a Shirley Jackson short story and was waiting for someone at the end to get stoned to death. As I begin to describe the procession in detail, I wish I could say that I know the names of every group or what story from the bible they are depicting but none of my Spanish friend or family wants to have anything to do with this holy week, so no one explained the names to me, but I take that as a good thing.

The first part of the parade is often young boys, dressed in the KKK purple robes, holding huge candles and two are carrying a large metal cross. Then comes older boys, about my age, wearing fancy dress clothes and strange hats, and swinging enough incense to make the whole city smell. Then more KKK members, holding bells, and then the float. Every day there is a different float, depicting a different Jesus story. The floats are incredible. But really. The faces have so much detail, it looks like they use real hair, and there are tons of gold, flowers, and candles. It looks like it must weigh mucho mucho mucho and even though it is very very heavy, it is transported through the streets for hours on end by humans. After the float, there is the band. Trumpets and other horns along with drums. The music is so loud but that adds to the intensity. Then there are old women dressed in black with veils and candles and then random people who need to feel the lord.

All of this nonsense goes on until Sunday. Last night was the one of the biggest nights, meaning it goes for 12 hours. 6 pm to 6 am. I don´t understand where it goes. Chiclana is not that big. But whatever. I was only there for an hour or so. It is really crazy. The best part is the that candy store are open until 2:30 am, which really, is the best part. The streets are all coated with a not so thin layer of wax. Every time a car turns a corner, it makes a terrible screeching sound.

Everyone tells me that the parade is much better in San Fernando and in Cadiz, but I don´t have the energy to go witness thousands of people being entranced by such things. In Sevilla, it is even bigger than the Carnival night here, which I can´t even imagine.

So yes, I have experienced my first Holy Week (but for real) and it was and still is crazy. I took pictures and will try to post them ASAP. Here is a Youtube video that I think you will enjoy. It was from last year Holy Week.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyLUT581wgM&feature=related

Well that is all for now.....Paris in 5 days and my birthday in 6!

Happy Passover!